Just before the road dips fully into Rubirizi District, the landscape changes in a way you can feel before you name it. Tea estates stretch out for the last time, their tidy lines slowly surrendering to a darker, denser green. The air cools. Birdsong grows louder. The forest begins to close in with quiet authority. It is here, at the edge of the Kalinzu–Nkombe forest belt, that Kalinzu Eco Lodge reveals itself. There is no dramatic gate or clearing carved